What is actually happening
When the oven and hob fail at the same moment the fault is nearly always the supply they share rather than two appliances failing at once. That means the cooker switch, the breaker, or the terminal block where the cable enters the back — and the terminal block is the one worth taking seriously, because it fails by arcing and charring rather than cleanly.
The usual causes
- A tripped breaker or a switched-off cooker isolator
- A burnt or arcing terminal block at the cable connection
- A failed control board or timer holding everything off
- A timer left in auto, which locks the oven off on many models
What you can safely check yourself
Work through these in order. Anything past this point — panels off, testing parts, anything to do with the wiring — is an engineer's job, and not one to attempt with the appliance plugged in.
- Check the cooker switch on the wall and the breaker in the consumer unit
- Check the timer is set to manual rather than auto
- Look and smell behind the cooker for scorching at the cable entry — if there is any, leave it isolated and do not use it
Still not working?
Most of these need an engineer once the checks above are done. £66 including VAT for an engineer to come out and diagnose it, or £84 in total including VAT if it is put right on the visit and no parts are needed. Any parts needed are quoted on site before we fit them — you decide. Every repair carries a 90-day workmanship guarantee.
Local engineers covering Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire — same and next-day appointments, and the person who comes out is one of ours, not a subcontractor.
Call 0115 648 0929 Book online — postcode and number is all we need
Common questions
Why is my electric cooker not working?
The whole cooker is dead, or the oven and hob have both stopped together. When the oven and hob fail at the same moment the fault is nearly always the supply they share rather than two appliances failing at once. That means the cooker switch, the breaker, or the terminal block where the cable enters the back — and the terminal block is the one worth taking seriously, because it fails by arcing and charring rather than cleanly.
Can I fix a electric cooker not working myself?
Check the cooker switch on the wall and the breaker in the consumer unit. Check the timer is set to manual rather than auto. Look and smell behind the cooker for scorching at the cable entry — if there is any, leave it isolated and do not use it. Beyond those checks this one normally needs an engineer.
How much does it cost to repair a electric cooker not working?
£66 including VAT for an engineer to come out and diagnose it, or £84 in total including VAT if it is put right on the visit and no parts are needed. Any parts needed are quoted on site before we fit them — you decide. Every repair carries a 90-day workmanship guarantee.