Sharp E10 washer dryer: what it means & what to check

Stop using it for now. Carrying on with this fault risks further damage or a leak. Switch it off at the wall until it has been looked at.

What E10 actually means

The machine has lost a sensible reading from its water-level sensor, so it can't tell how much water is in the drum and stops rather than risk filling blind.

Sharp washer dryers use a pressure sensor (The fault call it the EPS) that sends the control board a frequency signal representing the water level. The board expects that signal to sit within a narrow band while the pump runs; if it is out of range, or no signal arrives at all, it flags E10 and abandons the cycle — the same check is what fails first in the factory autotest routine. The manuals point at either the sensor itself or its connection, and they also warn against running the machine when the surrounding conditions are outside the normal range, so an unheated garage or outbuilding is worth mentioning to whoever attends.

What E10 looks like on a Sharp washer dryer

Most people find this page having searched for what the machine is doing rather than the code itself. On a Sharp washer dryer, E10 usually shows up as one or more of these:

Machine not draining
Water left in the drum at the end of the cycle
Stops mid-cycle full of water
Standing water in the bottom
Not filling with water
No water going in
Takes for ever to fill
Stops right at the start of the cycle

Recognise any of those? That is this fault, and the rest of this page explains what causes it and what you can check yourself.

What usually causes it

The pressure sensor itself has failed or drifted out of range
A loose or corroded plug on the sensor wiring
The little air hose between the tub and the sensor blocked, split or pinched
Water or condensation getting into the sensor connection
The machine standing somewhere very cold or damp, outside the conditions it's designed for

What you can safely check yourself

Work through these in order. Anything beyond this — panels off, testing parts, anything to do with the wiring — is an engineer's job, and not one to attempt with the machine plugged in.

Turn the machine off at the wall for a minute, then power it back up and see whether the code returns straight away or only part-way into a cycle
Clean the pump filter and check the drain hose isn't kinked or pushed too far into the standpipe — a drum that won't empty properly makes the level readings look wrong
If the appliance lives in a garage or outhouse, note the temperature; it isn't meant to run in near-freezing conditions
Note exactly when the code appears (on filling, on draining, at the start) — that tells the engineer a lot before they open anything

Which Sharp models show E10

E10 means the same thing on all 4 of these models. If yours is not listed, the explanation above still applies — the code is set by the control board, not the model number.

ES-GD75B · ES-GDD9144W0-EN · ES-GDF964W · ES-HDB8147W0-EN

Common questions about Sharp E10

What does E10 mean on a Sharp washer dryer?

The machine has lost a sensible reading from its water-level sensor, so it can't tell how much water is in the drum and stops rather than risk filling blind. Sharp washer dryers use a pressure sensor (The fault call it the EPS) that sends the control board a frequency signal representing the water level. The board expects that signal to sit within a narrow band while the pump runs; if it is out of range, or no signal arrives at all, it flags E10 and abandons the cycle — the same check is what fails first in the factory autotest routine. The manuals point at either the sensor itself or its connection, and they also warn against running the machine when the surrounding conditions are outside the normal range, so an unheated garage or outbuilding is worth mentioning to whoever attends.

Can I fix Sharp E10 myself?

There are 4 checks you can safely do yourself first.

Turn the machine off at the wall for a minute, then power it back up and see whether the code returns straight away or only part-way into a cycle.
Clean the pump filter and check the drain hose isn't kinked or pushed too far into the standpipe — a drum that won't empty properly makes the level readings look wrong.
If the appliance lives in a garage or outhouse, note the temperature; it isn't meant to run in near-freezing conditions.
Note exactly when the code appears (on filling, on draining, at the start) — that tells the engineer a lot before they open anything.

This one usually needs an engineer once you have tried them.

How much does it cost to repair Sharp E10?

£66 including VAT for an engineer to come out and diagnose it, or £84 in total including VAT if it is put right on the visit and no parts are needed. Any parts needed are quoted on site before we fit them — you decide. Every repair carries a 90-day workmanship guarantee.

Tried the checks and it's still showing E10?

This one usually needs an engineer once you have tried the checks above. Then it wants someone who can open it up.

What it costs, before you call: the price is the same whatever the fault turns out to be — £66 including VAT for an engineer to come out and diagnose it, or £84 in total including VAT if it is put right on the visit and no parts are needed. Any parts needed are quoted on site before we fit them — you decide. Every repair carries a 90-day workmanship guarantee.

Our own engineers, not a call centre. We cover Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire — most washer dryer faults are seen same day or next day.

Call 0115 648 0929 Book online — postcode and number is all we need

Outside our area? The explanation above still stands — take it to a local engineer and tell them the code. Knowing it saves them time and you money.

Other Sharp washer dryer codes

All Sharp fault codes and repairs →

What this looks like when it happens

washer dryer not drying

Written by the engineers at ASAP Repairs, 0115 648 0929. We repair these machines for a living in Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire.

Sharp E10 error — washer dryer